Finding cheap eats in expensive Tokyo

The counters fill up past at the restaurants in Yakitori Alley,
a food street that's Tokyo's best value

 Every time I go to Tokyo, I always stumble upon something new and interesting.

When I was in Japan's capital last month, for instance, I went out looking for some cheap eats and was directed to Yakitori Alley, a small street on the edge of the Ginza that runs parallel to the city's main elevated rail line on which the super fast Shinkansen (bullet) train rides.

In the hollowed out crevasses under the elevated line, restaurateurs have set up shop and sell everything from sushi to horse for very reasonable prices.

The best restaurants in Yakitori Alley are the ones with the longest lineups - like

Midori Sushi, where people start lining up as early as 4 p.m. to eat some of the freshest fish I've ever tasted (bought daily at Tokyo’s legendary Tsukiji fish market). The prices at Midori are very reasonable - two can eat for as little as $30; a steal in expensive Tokyo.

When you enter Midori Sushi, the chefs behind the long counter frantically preparing dynamite and California rolls yell out a welcome - it's a tradition in a lot of Japan's neighourhood restaurants. A la Carte selections like shrimp, sea urchin (you can have medium or extra fatty - guess which one I chose?),  abalone, flatfish and something called striped jack fish (delicious!) cost between $3 and $7 each and sides of chawanmushi (an egg custard filled with fish that's topped with a crab claw and is now one of my all time favourite dishes) run about $10.

The counter is the hottest seat in Midori Sushi and the local atmosphere is truly wonderful.
Yakitoti, by the way, means "meat on a skewer, and as you can imagine, there's plenty of barbecue places in the Alley toasting morsels of meat (beef and lamb) as well as fish and chicken on small habachis.

The Izakaya restaurant around the corner from Midori Sushi - across from the International Arcade - was another of my favorite Yakitori Alley hangouts - lots of Tokyo businessmen come here after a hard day at the office to eat and sip beer and sake while the bullet trains rumble overhead.

There's a great "local" atmosphere in Izakaya but beware of what you order - the dish being consumed at the next table that looks so good could be horse. Not to worry, this eclectic eatery also dishes up chicken, pork, beef and fish - all at very reasonable prices.


The Yakitori Bar Tonton restaurant, tucked away in one of the arches off Yakitori Alley, is another of my favourite places to eat. I consumed lots of skewers of pork and beef but shied away from the smorgasbord of organ meats served in this restaurant, like heart, gizzard, liver, tongue and intestines.

There's also plenty of Western-style restaurants in the Alley.

Finding Yakitori Alley can be a bit of a challenge - the closest subway station is Hibiya (take exit A2)

Turn right at the top of the stairs and walk along the elevated rail line until you see the passage way with the glowing lights and the grill smoke rising from it.

Exit C1 from the Ginza station offers more subway line connections and isn’t too much farther away. From here you’re closer to the "uncovered" yakitori stalls rather than the original ones under the tracks.

The freshest fish is always on the menu in this Alley.

Young people back Baldwin: Poll

I've been bombarded with lots of comments re. my blog last week in support of Alec Baldwin's refusal to turn off his cell phone while on a parked plane, which eventually led to his removal from that plane by the "airline Nazis" employed by bankrupt American Airlines.

A majority of the comments were in support of my position that the entire "turn off all electronics or the pilot won't be able to talk to the tower" lecture we get aboard flights is total nonsense and the pilots are probably on their cell phones arranging a tee time in the next city as they taxi.

Well, it turns out a lot of young people think the same as me.

According to the Atlanta-based polling firm Poll Position, which conducted a phone survey right after the Baldwin incident, 70 per cent of people between the ages of 18-29 said "yes" when asked "Do you think passengers on a plane should be able to play electronic games with others while on the runway awaiting takeoff?"

On the opposite side, 56 per cent of Americans 65 and over agreed with the airlines and said passengers should not be allowed to play games on cell phones or other electronic devices while awaiting takeoff. What the poll did not show is that probably 90 per cent of that 56 per cent number wouldn't know how to play a game on their cell phone.

For his part, Baldwin had some fun with the incident. On Saturday Night Live this past week, Baldwin, dressed as a pilot, apologized to himself.

Don't we all wish airline employees had a sense of humor like this?

See a breakdown of the full Poll Position survey at http://media.pollposition.com.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/Poll-Position-Crosstabs-Electronic-games-on-plane.pdf.

Singapore airport is a 'paradise'



Changi makes most botanical gardens blush with envy.



I've heard airports described in many - usually unflattering - terms but never a "traveller's paradise."

But the folks who run Singapore's Changi Airport - my favourite airport in the world - have come up with a menu of activities - most free - for people who are caught there on a layover which makes the giant facility feel like a paradise.

Hats off to the people running Changi  for trying to help consumers - don't we wish airlines were this thoughtful.

Anyway, Changi is now not a bad place to be left stranded, because:

If you have a two to three hour layover at Changi, you can:

- Surf the Internet or send out some emails with FREE Internet services (15 mins);

- Enjoy a relaxing stroll in the world's first Butterfly Garden in an airport at Terminal 3 (20 mins);

- Whiz down the Slide @ Terminal 3, the tallest airport slide in the world and try to beat the best times too (10 seconds or less - sliders determine the time);

- Get a FREE foot massage at the Foot and Calf Massage Stations (15 minutes);

- Pick up fantastic gifts from a wide selection of souvenirs, toys, fashion and books (30 mins);

- Grab a quick bite at Changi Airport Shopping City's wide selection of food kiosks serving anything from mouth-watering local desserts to sushi (on conveyor belts!) (30 mins).

If you have a three to four hour layover:

- Try out a fish micro-massage therapy at the Fish Spa & Reflexology (30 mins);

- Refresh with a quick shower (20 mins) at the Rainforest Lounge on Terminal 1 or at the Ambassador Transit Lounge at Terminals 2 and 3;

- Gamers, test your skills at the FREE Xbox 360 and PlayStation® 3 games at the Entertainment Deck (30 mins);

- Shop at the wide selection of fashion labels, gift choices and lifestyle brands (1 hour)

- Enjoy delicious gourmet dining at our wide range of restaurants (45 mins) including Mediterranean cuisine at Fish & Co., Cantonese fare at Crystal Jade Shangai Restaurant, freshly made dim sum delights, noodles, and more at Peach Garden Noodle House - there is something for every palette

If you have four to five hours:

- Soak up the sun and take a refreshing dip in the rooftop swimming pool (30 mins);

- Get a new hairdo or manicure (45 mins);

- Catch a blockbuster movie for FREE at the Movie Theatre (2 hours);

- Rediscover the beauty of nature at one of Changi's themed gardens (15 mins);

- Tuck into a hearty meal and chill out at Harry's Bar or Hard Rock Cafe (45 mins);

If you have more than five hours:

- Join a FREE Singapore Tour and take in the sights and sounds of Singapore, as well as get a glimpse into Singapore’s ethnic heritage and tourist attractions (I've done this and it's great fun) (2 hours);

- Try out various cuisine options from local, Asian and international dining outlets in the airport (45 mins);

- Don't miss out on some great buys from our wide range of duty-free products (1 hour);

- Catch a nap at one of our quiet Rest Areas or check into a napping facility (1 hour).

There's also lots of things to keep kids entertain at Changi.

All this tells me why international magazines continually rate Changi as one of the top 3 airports in the world - I say it's No. 1 because no other airport I know of offers so much for free.

With all that's happening in the "traveller's paradise", I just hope people don;t miss their flights.